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We provide this information to help with your installations.
Click on the heading of your choice to jump to the topic.
- Roof Rail Weatherstrip
- Door Seals
- Convertible Top Seals
- Quarter Window Seals
- Convertible Pillar Seals
- Trunk Seal
- Snap-In Bumpers
- Windshield, Front & Back
- Vent Windows & Run Channel
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLING ROOFRAIL WEATHERSTRIP!
FOR HARDTOPS
OLD ROOFRAIL WEATHERSTRIPPING SEALS become brittle and cracked as they are
constantly exposed to the weather. This deterioration allows rain and wind to reach your
interior. By replacing old seals, you can keep out the elements, add a touch of class to
your car and you will have a much quieter ride.
GENERAL HINTS: Always start at the front when removing and installing
weatherstrip. Place a tiny bit of adhesive in the channel, not on the weatherstrip. |
A)
PREPARATION: Remove the old strip, in one piece if possible, by extracting the black
plastic anchor pins or screws at the molded end using a side cutter or screwdriver. Pull
the rubber away from the channel, using a release agent to remove old glue if necessary.
Clean and scrape the channel with a small wire brush, using masking tape to avoid
scratching any surfaces.
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B)
START AT THE FRONT: Starting at the front (see Figure 12A), install the black plastic
anchor pins or screws in the molded end, putting a tiny bit of adhesive in the channel. C)
INSTALL SEAL: Insert the main section into the channel, working your way from the
front to the back, using a hard plastic or rubber squeegee to lock the rubber into the
edges of the channel (see Figure 12B).
D) TUCK AWAY: Work your way to the end of the channel. Leave about two inches of
excess rubber, using a knife to cut off the rest. Tuck those excess tow inches into the
roof and quarter panel area.
On models with two molded ends, work your way to the back and install the pins or
screws, and you're done. |
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLING DOOR WEATHERSTRIPS!
A QUIET RIDE begins with new, made-to-fit weatherstripping. If your vehicle sounds like
you're driving with the doors open - then or top quality door weatherstripping is
essential.
GENERAL HINTS: Check carefully to make sure all clips are lined up with the
proper holes before inserting ANY clips in door holes. If weatherstripping with clips is
removed, the rubber may be torn. If tears occur, Super glue works well to make repairs.
A) PREPARATION: Remove the old strip in one piece if possible. Remove any old
anchor plugs using a pliers. Pushing and popping through any broken pins will also work. |
B) CLEANING: Clean the entire door surface and repair any
rust spots. C) INSTALL ONE END: On hardtops and convertibles, fasten one end
(Figure 8A), placing a tiny amount of adhesive on the mounting side of the end and a small
amount between pin anchors. On sedans and trucks, start at the top center and apply a
small bead of adhesive on the under side of the rubber between the two pins on either
side. Then install these pins.
D) EASY INSTALL: Now simply place a small bit of adhesive to the rubber between
pins on the main length of weatherstrip, push pins in and work your way around. (Figure
8B)
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E) YOUR
LAST STEP: On hardtops and convertibles, your strip is made to fit exactly. On sedans
and trucks, where lengths of extrusion are used, carefully cut the ends squarely to match
together, allowing a 1/4 inch to overlap. At this seam, apply adhesive to the ends of the
strip. Hold the ends together a moment and add a small amount of glue around the edges to
get any areas missed. Then allow the seam to fully dry before shutting the door, checking
for any oozing glue. F) CHECK: Check your door for alignment. Your new
weatherstrip is made to the correct factory specifications. Our soft sponge rubber will
soon adjust to irregularities in doors for a positive seal and ease of closing doors in
just a short time. |
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLING CONVERTIBLE TOP WEATHERSTRIP!
DO YOU OWN A CONVERTIBLE? If so, does your convertible have a leaky or windy
roof? To prevent water and wind leaks, you need to replace your present weatherstripping
with soft, pliable rubber.
GENERAL HINTS: Proper fit and function of this molded roof rail seal depends
upon the correct adjustment of the top frame, relative to the side windows. Do not expect
weatherseal to automatically fit every car without some adjustments. Consult the factory
service manual for top adjustment details.
A) PREPARATION: Raise the top to a good working height. Remove all old pieces
from the roof rails and header. Scrape out and clean all foreign material from the roof
rail frame (Figure 11A), using an adhesive release agent if necessary. You may raise and
lower the top to have access to all screws and anchor pins. |
B)
ADJUSTMENTS: Adjust door and side windows, so that there is an even gap of about
1/2" along the top edge of the glass to the back roof rail.
C) INSTALL ROOF RAIL SEAL: Install the driver side and passenger side long straight
pieces first, then the corner pieces, up to the header. D) INSTALL HEADER SEAL
(Figure 11B): Cut the sponge rubber seal with a sharp knife to proper length (if
molded ends are not connected to side rails). Use an adhesive to bond it to the header.
Trim the ends neatly to fit flush with corner pieces. (some front sections on certain cars
are pre-bonded to the header, so you should skip this last step.) |
E)
ADJUSTMENTS: Note that the molded holes in the side rail pieces are somewhat oversize.
Position the front side rail pieces laterally, so the door glass top edge enters the
groove in the weatherstrip. (Note: angle of the trim on all side glass may be adjusted by
inside-the-body adjustments. Please consult your factory shop manual for details if
needed). F) RECOMMENDATION: We suggest that silicone-based or water-based spray
lubricant be used on all rubber pieces where glass meets rubber to prevent excess
friction.
G) TO FINISH: Position the remaining side rail pieces as described in step E.
Close the top before any adhesive dries, being careful that no adhesive drips out. |
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLING QUARTER WINDOW SEALS!
OLD QUARTER WINDOW SEALS should be replaced when they start to shrink, harden
and crack. Wind and water can leak through. It's easy to give your car a better look with
new quarter window seals.
Our quarter window seals are made-to-fit and made-to-last.
GENERAL HINTS: Heavily chromed channels may cause a very tight fit when
installing quarter seals. Make sure you use a light lubricant to make your seal slide
easily. |
A) REMOVE
OLD SEALS: Remove your old seals. You may have to remove the door jamb to get to the
seals. Remove any screws at the base of the old seal. Then, grab the old seal with pliers
and pull down, using firm downward pressure with your other hand or with someone's help. Do
not let the chrome come off the window! B) CLEAN OUT CHANNEL: Clean out
any rust or debris with a small wire brush being careful not to scratch the chrome. You
may put a strip of masking tape on the chrome before you start cleaning to protect it.
Remove any old adhesive, using a release agent. Wipe the surface with a clean cloth. |
C) APPLY
LUBRICANT: Apply a light lubricant or soapy water to the back of your new seal. If
your model car did not have screws attaching the quarter seal, you will have to apply a
small bead of adhesive to the inside of the channel. (Figure 10A).
D) SLIDE SEAL ON: Slide the window seal starting at the bottom onto the channel.
Replace the screws at the bottom of the base if necessary (Figure 10B) and reattach the
door jamb. |
SO EASY TO
INSTALL and so important for your car! Our pillar post weatherstrip helps prevent water
leaks, supports and firms your side windows, and helps seal out noise.
Top quality, made-to-fit &
made-to-last.A) PREPARATION: Carefully remove the old seals from your car, using
a release agent if necessary. Remove all old rubber pieces from the retainer channel,
using a wire brush if necessary. Wipe clean.
Watch out for the sharp edges! You may put a strip of masking tape down the sides to
help prevent scratches.
B) LUBE UP: Using a clean rag, cover the entire strip with lubricant for easy
installation and adjustment. |
C) INSTALL
BOTTOM END: Starting at the bottom (Figure 7A & 7B), set and install the molded
end, inserting new pins into holes. Apply a very tiny amount of glue to a clean spot
(clean up any lubricant) on the back side of the end to help hold it in place.
 D) COMPLETE INSTALLATION:
After the bottom end is installed and all pins are in place, apply a small amount of
water-based lubricant to both the retainer channel and the back side of the seal. Now
carefully pry the flange into the retainer channel using a hard squeegee (Figure 12B). |
E)
ADJUSTMENTS: The exact final length can be adjusted by pushing and compressing the
rubber. The lubricant should allow the rubber to slide easily. Repeat this procedure
for the other side.
F) ADD ADHESIVE: If the ends seem to slip, clean off any lubricant and then
apply only a tiny amount of adhesive to help hold the ends.
A CUSTOM FIT!
It will adjust slightly in profile after a few days to provide excellent sealing
qualities. This will be done while your window is compressed against the new seal. |
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU BEGIN INSTALLING TRUNK WEATHERSTRIP!
SHOW YOU CARE FOR YOUR car with new trunk weatherstripping. Did you know
that old, worn-out trunk seals may hold water that can cause rust in the groove around
your trunk? You can help prevent leaks and excess dust, as well as give your trunk a fresh
new look with our easy-to-install trunk weatherstrip.
GENERAL HINTS: Proper fit and function of this trunk weatherstrip
extrusion depends upon the correct installation (Figure 9A). Do not use your old flattened
strip as a guide. Read the entire instructions here before beginning.
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A)
PREPARATION: Compare your old seal to the new one to make sure that the new seal will
do the job. Remember, old seals are flat and your new sponge rubber is very forgiving in
the case of slight difference in shape. Make sure you take note of which side of your
strip faces toward the outside of the trunk! B) REMOVE OLD SEAL: Apply liberal
amounts of a release agent as you pull until you have removed all weatherstripping. Make
sure any old adhesive, debris or rubber is removed with a scraper and even vacuumed if
necessary.
C) ADHESIVE BEAD: Check your trunk lid alignment and then run a bead of adhesive
inside the groove as you install the strip.
D) INSTALL WEATHERSTRIP: Start at the center above the lock cylinder and begin
to insert your new weatherstrip. Fold your strip in half and start with the half-way
point. Make sure both inside and outside edges are tight and sealed. |
E) GLUE AS
YOU GO: Start about 8 inches from the center and begin to glue around each side as you
go until you get to about 8 inches from the end. Carefully cut the ends squarely to match
together, allowing a 1/4 inch to overlap. At this seam, apply adhesive to the trunk
channel and a small amount to the ends of the strip. Hold the ends together for a moment
and then insert. Close your trunk and open it, making sure no glue oozes out and shows.
Wipe up any excess glue immediately. |
IT'S EASY
TO INSTALL OUR NEW RUBBER BUMPERS
RATTLE, PING, RATTLE! Quiet the rattle and noise of your car with new rubber bumpers.
Our bumpers are not only affordable and easy to install, they also help your car look new,
prevent damage and help deep alignments tight on lids, trunks, doors and glass.
GENERAL HINTS: Popping out old, hard and cracked rubber bumpers takes little
more than a screwdriver and some careful prying. To prevent scratching the surface, you
may want to use another item to cushion the screwdriver as you pry. |
If a rubber
anchor breaks off and remains in the hole, try poking it through or even carefully using a
tiny drill to remove it. DOOR BUMPERS: Align anchors with door holes and push in
(Figure 6A). You may use a light lubricant, such as soap, and the handle end of a small
screwdriver to push the carrot in solidly.
TRUNK BUMPERS: Your bumpers will become flat and inefficient with age. Just line
up your new set and push into the hole, using some lubricant and a twisting action. |
HOOD
BUMPERS: Both hood bumpers and adjustable hood bumpers are important for a proper hood
fit. Match the fender slots and bumper anchors and slide the bumper into the key hole
slot. Adjustable bumpers should already be adjusted to the proper height of your hood. If
not, screw the bolt up or down for a flush hood. GLOVE BOX & CONSOLES: These
tiny bumpers help prevent glovebox or console noise and help keep your car from the damage
associated with opening and closing these small doors. Use pliers to pull the old ones out
and push in the new ones. Pulling a tail from the back is also helpful (Figure 6B |
If you are seeking advice on how to install a windshield, we recommend that you seek
the services of a professional auto glass installer for your windshields. You may have a
"gasket set" glass or you may have a "glue in" glass. With the
complexity and variances of each application, this is beyond what we can offer here. If
you attempt this installation and destroy the clips, molding, gasket or glass you'll wish
you had hired someone with the expertise.
Our experience has taught us that these can be some of the most difficult parts to
install. With this said, you might want to call an auto glass shop and get an estimate
from them before you disassemble one of your doors, just to find out you don't have the
correct tools or patience to complete the job. If you still want to install these parts
yourself, (and we have done them before, though only our personal cars), our only words of
advice are,
- Allow enough time to complete the job without rushing.
- Do only one window at a time, so that you can refer to the other when you get
disoriented.
- Mark all bolt holes, many are slotted for window adjustments (in-out, for-aft, up-down,
etc)..
- Take the time to clean out the dirt and debris that will be at the bottom of the door,
lubricate all the rollers and pivot points of the window regulator, door latch and lock
mechanisms.
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